Kibkom North Cyprus Forum

Has anyone had a new galvanised hot/cold water tank fitted on their roof recently?

Just wanted a rough idea of cost for Supply & Fit.

Regards,

John

we have just put a plastic water tank , 850TL

brianc wrote:we have just put a plastic water tank , 850TL

Is that a hot water tank.

1 ton roof tank metal including fitting 600TL Lapta far end.

It s 450 TL to buy the tank, and then around 200 TL for fitting

If it is for cold water storage, is there a good reason to use a metal tank that will rust, rather than a plastic one which will not?

Sorry, should have said we were enquiring for a neighbour who has a round metal tank which contains an element that heats the water,

that has started to develop a slight leak, and he wants to change like for like.

Thanks for all the replies, I've given him all the prices and phone numbers so he can decide in the morning.

Cheers all,

John.

We can supply & fit with one of our long lasting immersion elements that will save you a lot of money in the long run for £250
http://www.braceybuilders.com

Around 750 tl supplied and fitted by yunus in Karaglagnalu (spelling)

That was earlier in the year.

Included immersion heater and new pressure relief valve. Important to change PRV as if this fails worst case scenario "BOOM"

John, 850TL was for the cold water tank

Flora Dora if you can easily get access to the hot tank, the safety valve can easily be "lifted " by turning the knot then allowing it to reset. As for it going "boom" the one fitted to my system, if I recall is rated at 15 or 20 bar. Normal working pressure is between 2 and 3 bar but even under fault conditions would not reach 20 bar. It is useful however for venting the system if I've been working on it.

If you want a descent tank, greater wall thickness than the ones made in the local metal work shops, and plastic lined with expanded foam insulation, go to Dimililer on the Nicosia Ind Est (next to the Range Rover garage).

Their tanks are made by Solimpeks (http://www.solimpeks.com).

Dimililer contact details are on the internet if you google them.

thornaby wrote:.........As for it going "boom" the one fitted to my system, if I recall is rated at 15 or 20 bar. Normal working pressure is between 2 and 3 bar but even under fault conditions would not reach 20 bar. It is useful however for venting the system if I've been working on it.

You need a lower rated PRV, the point of the PRV is to lift in the event of over pressure long before the system goes 'boom' as it has been described. Your valve will not even lift with thermal expansion, the system will fail first, most likely at the tank due to the large surface area.

If your pump runs at 2-3 bar, a 4 bar PRV (available at most Yapi's) on the roof is more than enough as the pressure on the roof is the pump pressure minus the hydrostatic head to the roof (0.43 psi/ft).

If your PRV is on the ground next to the pump , you may have to use a 6Bar to allow for surge presure also when the pump runs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61uDmQF5I2E&sns=em

Better safe than sorry!

I have seen the damage they can do. That's why in the UKyou have to have an unvented domestic water qualification to fit and work on this type of system.

I have seen the tanks being made here and have seen NO evidence of pressure testing.

Pressurised water at boiling point (faulty thermostat ) will expand 10 fold in an instant if the cylinder ruptured.


Also I have noticed that I have never seen any pipe work from a PRV so as to divert any potential "blow off" to a safe place. Most off them are pointing at your face! Even this needs to be sized correctly and a tell tale in line.

Also when twisting the PRV make sure you are well away from any scolding water that exits it.

Your choice!

And just my opinion of course

Food for thought

http://www.renewtech.co.uk/UVHW%20OSG%20Sec%204.pdf

I was way out with my steam expansion. Shows how out of touch I have become