Need a water pump engineer - Lapta area

[paul90]

Can anyone recommend a person in the Lapta area who can strip down and service a house water pump?
(I tried Serif but he now lives in Esentepe).
Thanks in advance.

[IPMAN]

The yapi market at the side of freddies did mine - in fact i think i bought a new one to put me on whilst it went for repair

[paul90]

The yapi market at the side of freddies did mine - in fact i think i bought a new one to put me on whilst it went for repair

I have tried them - they have been twice (took it away once), fitted new condenser and motorised valve but, unfortunately, have not been able to solve the problem.
Hence need a fresh pair of eyes for a second opinion.

[SunnyParkers]

Press Teknik, on main road from Alsancak to Lapta (sea side) just before Green Lotus Chineses restaurant

[thornaby]

Paul90, a condenser and a motorised valve? It will have a capacitor but no motorised valve.

[paul90]

Paul90, a condenser and a motorised valve? It will have a capacitor but no motorised valve.

Yes, sorry, slip of the pen - meant Capacitor that is within the pump.
By motorised valve I meant the blue Automatic Control unit that sits on top of the pump and controls when the pump switches on and off as taps are opened etc.
Apologies for the misunderstanding.

[ElectricianPete]

What are the symptoms?

[thornaby]

Paul90, if the capacitor and pressure controller have been replaced and the pump will still not run it sounds like there is no supply to the controller. The controller gets a supply from the float switch in the water tank. If you dont have the means to carry out test a simple way forward would be to wire up the pump direct from an extension cable. If you remove the panel on the front of the controller you will see two sets of terminals that are clearly marked up . If you disconnect the one marked up pump and join these wires to the extension lead the pump run. If that is successful I would reconnect the pump wire and disconnect the incoming supply. Connect your extension lead wires into the terminals you have just disconnect. The pump should run if the water pressure is low. There is a reset button on the front of the controller. These test should be done with the pump turned off. An electrical test meter is a really useful tool and would help you diagnose the fault in seconds.

[paul90]

What are the symptoms?

Hi Pete - I think you have seen my pump in the past.

75% of the time it comes on with no problem. Other times, when a tap is opened, I get no water so I go to the pump and find that the "Failure" light on the controller is lit up. Pushing the "restart" button has no effect - the pump fails to start.
However if I move the fan on the spindle/shaft on the back of the pump the smallest distance, say half an inch, and then press restart it starts perfectly --- until the next time!!

So, although I am not ruling out an electrical issue, I am of the opinion that something inside the pump is just preventing the spindle/shaft to turn occasionally.

[paul90]

Paul90, if the capacitor and pressure controller have been replaced and the pump will still not run it sounds like there is no supply to the controller. The controller gets a supply from the float switch in the water tank. If you dont have the means to carry out test a simple way forward would be to wire up the pump direct from an extension cable. If you remove the panel on the front of the controller you will see two sets of terminals that are clearly marked up . If you disconnect the one marked up pump and join these wires to the extension lead the pump run. If that is successful I would reconnect the pump wire and disconnect the incoming supply. Connect your extension lead wires into the terminals you have just disconnect. The pump should run if the water pressure is low. There is a reset button on the front of the controller. These test should be done with the pump turned off. An electrical test meter is a really useful tool and would help you diagnose the fault in seconds.

Thanks Thornaby - your reply came in as I was replying to Pete.
I will probably ask Pete to come here since he lives close to me.
Then we can run some tests as you describe.

[JoandJelly]

May I ask what causes the pump to "fail" when it has been working perfectly fine moments before. This has happened a few times at my friend's apartment that they rent out so causes problems for the people staying there. Thanks.

Edited to add that by fail I mean having to press the reset button.

[Keithcaley]

It could be that the 'starter winding' on the motor (that's the winding that is connected to the capacitor) is not functioning correctly, which could be due to a fault in the winding itself - perhaps due to overheating or ingress of moisture - or some other cause. I have known one case where the wrong size of capacitor had been fitted at some point, and simply replacing it with the same size capacitor didn't improve the situation by one jot!

Intermittent fault symptoms can be a devil of a job to trace and correct, and if the pump is only a standard 1HP type it might be expedient to replace it rather than spending more time and effort in trying to fix it.

ElectricianPete is your man for this though, I would be guided by whatever he says.

[paul90]

May I ask what causes the pump to "fail" when it has been working perfectly fine moments before. This has happened a few times at my friend's apartment that they rent out so causes problems for the people staying there. Thanks.

Edited to add that by fail I mean having to press the reset button.

That is the answer I am looking for so will keep you updated with progress I make.

[ElectricianPete]

May I ask what causes the pump to "fail" when it has been working perfectly fine moments before. This has happened a few times at my friend's apartment that they rent out so causes problems for the people staying there. Thanks.

Edited to add that by fail I mean having to press the reset button.

The failure light can come on if;
1. The tank feeding the pump has run out of water
2. The pump is seized and therefore no pressure is detected after about 15 seconds
3. the pump is free to turn but the capacitor has failed and therefore again no pressure is detected.

Also sometimes the Pressure control unit can fail.

I went to have a look at Paul's pump, and the capacitor had been replaced with an incorrect size one.
In his case it should have been 40 micro farads, and they had fitted a 30 micro farad one.

Most house pumps are normally 16 or 20 micro farads.

Hopefully the problem is solved.

[JoandJelly]

Thanks Pete x